Dale G. Kraus, MMR
Hello, everyone!
This is the first installment of a sporadic series about Digital Command Control. My intent is to be a “myth buster” and to present DCC in a non-technical, anti-geek-speak manner. Since the G-I is now in blog format, others are welcome to join in with questions, tips, and ideas for making DCC easy to understand and use. (Please note the use of “easy!”) For erudite discussions of the advanced uses of DCC, please go to the NMRA’s DCC Special Interest Group website: http://jdb.psu.edu/nmra/dccsig.html.
Onward! To kick this off, I will address two persistent myths: DCC is complicated and DCC is expensive.
Myth #1: DCC is complicated
DCC is a complex, feature-rich control system that has a vast and expanding repertoire of capabilities. Most systems come with a manual which, if read thoroughly by the newcomer, can be rather daunting. My advice: read only the “Getting Started” part of the manual and the Basic Programming section which deals with CV’s 1 through 6. Then simply replace your power pack with the DCC system. If you have two or more power packs and control your blocks with block selector toggle switches, replace one pack and throw all the selectors to the position controlled by that pack. Presto! You now have a DCC railroad. More on this in a later article.
Myth #2: DCC is expensive
For most home railroads, a basic system is all the DCC you’ll ever need. These systems have a 1.5 to 3.5-amp capacity and range from about $80 to $180. Unless you’re running large O scale locos, this will be sufficient. Basic decoders, good for N, HO and most S locos, run about $19 each. So, unless you’re running a one-horse logging show or switching pike, installing DCC can actually cost less than a comparable DC system. Remember, you have to factor in all the power packs, all the selector toggles, all the control panels, and that “spider-on-LSD” web of under-table wiring.
A Quick Tip
If you are using twin-coil solenoid switch machines, you can take the control wiring directly off of the track power buss. The track power is basically a 16-volt signal, which the solenoids will “see” as AC.
More later. Let’s hear from you all! And remember: when hooking up your system and programming your locos, read and follow the instructions! Comments are welcomed below!